Mount Popa is a volcanic peak – inactive for 250,000 years – which, at a height of nearly 5,000 feet, is the highest peak in central Myanmar. Nearby is a volcanic plug topped by a gilded temple that has become a major Buddhist destination. Recently, this plug acquired the name Mt. Popa and the dormant volcano was renamed Taung Ma-gyi.

Spirit House — Arriving at the town at the base of the volcano, we stop first at the Spirit House before heading up the precipitous stairs to the top of the volcanic plug. Mt. Popa is considered home to Myanmar’s “37 nat” spirit beings. Spirit worship pre-dates the arrival from India of Hinduism and Buddhism, but remained in place and was integrated with Buddhism as it spread. Myanmar families have a Buddhist shrine along with small shrines to their two or three favorite spirits.

Each of the 37 official spirits is a person from an earlier time who had certain attributes, by virtue of which the spirit of that person can be called on to protect certain types of individuals or situations. Mae Wunna is the local spirit. Her husband and two sons (who were born on Mt. Popa) were servants to King Anawrahta and were executed for neglecting their duties. She is the mother spirit who locals pray to for help. Another favorite is Lord Kyawswa, the drunken spirit, who was a gambler and drunk and is the guardian of gamblers and drunks. Our favorite is U Shin Kyi, a seaman and a harp player who protects sailors and musicians. Other spirits include a protector of children, and a spirit that can be called on for protection when a snake enters the house.

Climbing Mt. Popa — as we are approaching the volcano we spy the volcanic plug which shoots straight up 2500 feet from the town at its base. It is a shear-sided rock wall that seems accessible only to rock climbing. A set of gilded Buddhist shrines and temples appear to have been dropped from heaven on the top of the plug.

Just beyond the Spirit House a wide staircase lures us to the start of the climb, which is shoe-clad at first, but about a third of the way up requires us to shed our shoes and continue barefoot. A colony of Rhesus monkeys own the town and entertain us with a variety of high-wire stunts along the climb – fed and encouraged by visitors and locals. An army of men who sweep up the monkey poop and mop the steps are supported by donations made along the way.

The route to the top takes us up steep, narrow, covered staircases which at times become almost ladders — a total of 777 steps — all apparently hung off the side of the plug. The top provides an unobstructed view of the surrounding area.

Palm sugar — While Bagan and surroundings are on a semi-arid plain, the road out to Mt. Popa from Bagan passes through productive farmland. Fields that grow peanuts and sesame seeds are bounded by palm trees.

The trees are tapped for a sap that can be cooked into palm sugar or fermented to produce beer or clear alcohol a lot like vodka. The sugar is combined with another ingredient (coconut, tamarind, ginger, plum) and crystallized. The resulting candy is delicious (and almost pure sugar). A few family-owned farms along the route have elaborate roadside enterprises that sell palm products, peanuts and sesame seeds as well as picnic grounds, and play areas for the kids.

Lunch at a Beautiful Resort — We are rewarded for our climb with an outdoor lunch at a beautiful resort set in the trees at the base of the dormant volcano. The setting provides a clear view looking down on the pagodas we were just in on top of the volcanic plug.

Begging along the road — The day we drive to Mt. Popa is an important Buddhist holiday attracting many of the faithful to Mt. Popa. Donating and providing alms to monks and to the poor is an important obligation for Buddhists and a way to improve their karma. Many poor individuals and families come out to line the routes to Mt. Popa during the holiday and beg for alms. The line of people along the roadside with their arms outstretched is a troubling reminder of the economic hardship visited on Myanmar over its 50 years of military rule and the lasting impact it is having on so many today.