Vietnam – Hoi An – Part 1

On By glatkins

Driving from Hue to Hoi An — The road from Hue to Hoi An is Route 1 running parallel to the coast and making a mountain climb midway that affords a great view of the coastal beaches. We make a stop for the view of the coast and a look through the remains of an American lookout post.

The road up the mountain and the view of the beaches to the north from the top.
A Buddhist shrine placed in the middle of the remains of an American lookout post.
The remains of a pillbox sends a different message.

Da Nang – Famous during the war with America as the home for a major American Air Force base that at its peak was the busiest airport in the world. Today Da Nang is a rapidly growing magnet for the beach and resort crowd. New resorts under construction along the beaches south of the city include prominent American chains: Hyatt, Intercontinental, Sheraton, Marriott, and Raddison.

Da Nang City
Unspoiled Da Nang Beaches

Hoi An – History — Hoi An is an old coastal port that was founded at the beginning of the 17th century and came to be considered by Chinese and Japanese traders in the 18th century the best trading port in all of Indochina. By the 19th century, trading had moved up the coast to Da Nang and Hoi An became a forgotten city. As the world passed it by, the old city was frozen in time. A Polish architect – Kazimierz Kwiatkowski – was sent by UNESCO to Hoi An in 1980 and subsequently played a major role in saving and restoring the old town. In 1999, it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is today a major tourist attraction in Vietnam.

Hoi An – Today – The major attraction in Hoi An is the old city and the ample supply of 17th and 18th century timber buildings — homes, shops, and temples – beautifully restored and preserved and lining the streets. Today, these old buildings house handicraft and curio sellers, restaurants, tea and coffee houses, and a variety of clothing merchants, tailoring shops, and other enterprises. Hoi An is a tourist paradise for shopper’s, foodie’s and photographer’s.

The old quarter has street after street of beautifully preserved 17th and 18th century homes, shops, and temples — providing each street with a scenic, historical vista. UNESCO regulates heights, styles, and paint colors of renovations or new buildings to assure that the overall character of the area does not change. The old quarter is closed to traffic other than pedestrians or bicycles between 9 and 11 am and between 6 to 9 pm.

Ouyai – traditional silk dress – slender cut.

Hoi An By Night — At night the old quarter of Hoi An turns into a light festival with Chinese lanterns hung everywhere including the tourist boats in the river. The effect is stunning.

Japanese Bridge — The bridge was built in the early 17th century by Japanese merchants to link them with the Chinese quarters on the other side of the canal. More recently, Vietnamese and Chinese residents added a small temple to the God “Bac De Tran Vo” (Emperor of the North) to the bridge (it may be the only bridge in the world with its own temple).

Quang Thieu Assembly Hall – This assembly hall was built by Cantonese merchants in 1786. The main alter is dedicated to Quán Cong – a military general of the Three Kingdoms period in China (around 200 AD) who was revered for his acts of kindness to people in need. The tile murals tell his story. The dragon mosaic statue is the main attraction.

Quán Cong bringing food to a sick person in the winter.
Incense coils that burn continuously when lit for 3 months – with a prayer attached.

Tan Ky House — This house is occupied today by the seventh generation of the Vietnamese family that built it in the early 19th century. The house combines Chinese and Japanese architectural features from the period.

Part 2 to come — culinary experiences in Hoi An