We head north, driving along the huge Tonle Sap, to Siem Reap and Angkor Wat. The trip north takes us back to the glory days of the Khmer Empire, when it reached from sea-to-sea including Siam (present day Thailand) on the Bay of Bengal and the Cham Kingdom (present day Vietnam) on the South China Sea.
Cambodian Countryside — The trip provides ample evidence of the need for infrastructure improvements. Roads are mostly two-lane and the passing often creates three lanes of traffic, which Cambodian drivers seem to handle without breaking a sweat, the passengers say their prayers. The roads are also tooth-rattling — with lots of potholes and portions torn up here and there for re-paving. Towns are dusty, with roadside shops and restaurants that crowd the highway.
A common feature of rural Cambodia is the stilt house. There are a variety of explanations for why the stilt house is ubiquitous, including the benefits of shade and a draft in the hot climate – most people eat outside under the house — or as a way to keep snakes out of the house – or termites. The houses are built on teak or ironwood posts, and have stairs to the second floor where the bedrooms and kitchen are located.
Most of the vehicles we see involve a motorcycle or other simple as the source of power, but rigged to add so much more to the package.
Another feature of a trip through rural Cambodia is the range of food options. Lots of traditional curries, stir-fries, and noodle soups. But also some food items we don’t find other places:
Siem Reap — The town of Siem Reap has developed as a major destination in its role as the entry point for the temple complex at Angkor, which includes Angkor Wat and the city of Angkor (Angkor Thom). More on the historic sites, later.
Siem Reap itself is a series of dusty streets that are relatively by day, with a bar-restaurant-night market center that comes alive at night. The bulk of the population is either serving or selling to tourists, or is tourists.
But it has some good Khmer food!
Next: Angkor and Angkor Wat